The Monkey Temple, Soyambhunath

Swyambhunath Stupa

Stupa- Before Sunrise

                               View from the road (Southern Entrance)

The Monkey Temple

"Too often...I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen."-Louis L'Amour

Sun: “I lost the bet!”

I was already conscious and was on my feet before the sun actually appeared in the sky. It was still dawn and the earth still under the envelope of darkness.

I was following every step cautiously which I’d planned yesterday. Today morning, I had decided to explore Swyambhunath Stupa, the monkey Temple. “Now I feel confident to cut the misty atmosphere” I mumbled as I splashed ice cold water against my face. Then I entered inside the dining hall silently; I brewed tea and grabbed some breakfast before leaving for Stupa.

At about half past five, I was striding along the graveled road to Basundhara, my Ecko Function jacket precluding the wintry air entering into my chest. The path was still dark with sparse street light to guide my way to the bus station. With little fear inside my gut, I moved swiftly, my circumspect footstep resonating coherently with the barking of street dogs and rattling of insects.

“The highway seems different today!!” I was muddled to see few vehicles on the street, their infuriating headlight striking into my eyes, then they eluded inside the pitch-darkness at the speed of light. When I was at the Bus Station, waiting for the right bus to come, some natty college students were already there, waiting for their own bus.

After few minutes of patience, I got into a bus heading towards Swyambhunath Stupa.  Despite the hazy and chilling wintry atmosphere, it was warm and concord inside the bus, preoccupied by pied people in warm jackets and boots. I made my way prudently towards the posterior seat and put my headphones on, my ears devoid of incongruous speech, as the bus glided towards its destination.

In no more than twenty minutes, I was at Swyambhunath Bus Station, the environment still dark to notice people’s face. “If only I would have someone to accompany me!!” I grimaced as I heedfully made my way towards the temple(Stupa).  My heart thudded with fear and exhaustion as I climbed every concrete steps cautiously towards the top.  On my way, I asked two women, shopkeepers I presume, if they were too, heading towards the Stupa? They nodded their head, their eyes barely looking at mine. Eventually, they asked my name and address in rather cracked voice. I responded to them, my voice calm and low as I spoke, in order to make them realize I meant no harm to them. Then I paced towards the Stupa.

As I was on my half way to the Stupa, I halted as I noticed some distinctive sound, like chirping of birds. Later, my eyes froze for a moment, as I saw troop of monkeys snoring as they were sleeping, their proximity towards one another in order to ward off the cold January air. Despite the physical exhaustion, deep inside, I was restless like a child. My heart flooded with emotions, for I was there at that moment, capturing the surreptitious beauty of Nature.

Not only were my eyes pleased but also my nose, when every olfactory cell inside my nose got stimulated by the fragrance of Buddhist Stick Candles, brought along by the refreshing breeze of morning air from the nearby hills. “If only I could inhale every molecule of air!” I blurted. Then I ascended towards the top thinking,” How easily are we human lured?”

My deep thinking was suddenly perturbed by some folks of Tibetan youngster, bustling towards me. They were approaching towards me, singing Tibetan song in extraneous sound, interrupting the placid environment of the Stupa. I was almost at the summit, when I was thrilled to see breath taking vista of Kathmandu Valley, still sleeping. Every house glistened with multi colored lights, and I felt like I was watching fireflies dancing in the night sky.

When I flipped back, I was galvanized to see glistening Swyambhunath Stupa, glittering as the intense fluorescent light strikes the gold-plated pinnacle of Stupa. The dome shaped base of the Stupa was occupied my myriad troops of monkey, sliding, and climbing, and quarreling.  

Many devotees were already there, chanting mantras, matching Buddhist prayer candles, making a round trip around the monumental Stupa, spinning Buddhist Prayer Wheels. Other were busy, immersed in deep meditation, their eyes closed, their one palm closely fitted with another as they remember their good-doer and family. Some others were busy, doing yoga and other sundry exercises.  

As it was still dawn, I went to the east part of Stupa (the other entrance to the Stupa) and desended the sloppy and narrower ladder, counting EACH step I left behind, until I was gasping 367!!(I left few steps uncounted). Finally, I was at the button of the Stupa, a little exhausted. Looking at the top, I saw only the pinnacle of Stupa, the larger dome hidden besides the trees and walls. After taking few photographs, I noticed my empty stomach, longing for food. Then I walked ponderously towards a cafeteria to grab some breakfast.